| By Gabrielle & William Beams |
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Uluru Odyssey
Nothing symbolizes the beauty of the Red centre more than the most recognizable landmark in Australia – Uluru. This stunning 348 metre high rock is believed to be 500 to 600 million years old and has deep cultural significance to the traditional owners – the Anangu Aboriginal people. All Australians should undertake a pilgrimage to this wonderful icon.
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We left Alice Springs on our way to Uluru and travelled south down the Stuart Highway. Sandstone cliffs mark the entrance to Rainbow Valley on the left and Finke Gorge on the right is the natural habitat of the world famous red cabbage palms, some of which are several hundred years old. The Erldunda Roadhouse marks the start of the Lassiter Highway and the journey to Uluru. Erldunda has a caravan park, camping facilities, limited mechanical repairs, fuel and tourist information for the surrounding area. Replicas of a giant Echidna and a frilly necked lizard stand guard at the entrance to the Roadhouse, which is also the home of the Desert Oaks complex, an operation that raises cattle on the adjoining 6500 square kilometer property.
The Lassiter Highway winds through the red centre; salt lakes and remote cattle stations break the all encompassing isolation. As the road curves south near Curtain Springs, the huge 865 metre high Mount Connor rises from the flat landscape. This large mesa has a cap 3 kilometres long and 1200 metres wide and is often mistaken for Uluru by confused travellers. Mount Connor is called Artula by the local Aboriginal people.
From here the highway curves north and then west into the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. This 126,000 hectare National Park is jointly managed by the Anangu people and the Australian National Parks and Wildlife Service. Strict guidelines for tourists are in place so that the fragile environment cannot be destroyed. Your first glimpse of Uluru is awe inspiring as it dwarfs the surrounding landscape. It is advisable to stay at least 2 days to witness the ever changing colours of this national treasure. During the day it is a dull brown, however as the sun sets Uluru comes to life, glowing with the colours of fiery red to burnished orange and then fades to a deep crimson and finally charcoal. Every afternoon international and Australian tourists cram into the sunset viewing areas to witness the ever-changing kaleidoscope of colours. Again sunrise over the Rock gives you another colour explosion, although there tends to be fewer spectators who are willing to venture out to the viewing areas at dawn. There are several easy walking tracks around Uluru and photographs are allowed except inside the sacred site areas which are well signposted and fenced. A 10 kilometre walk around the base of the Rock will take approximately 3 to 4 hours; a shorter walk to the Mutitjula water hole on the south side is only a 1 kilomtre return journey. Many tourists insist on climbing Uluru, thinking that this is the accepted deed, however the Anangu people do not climb the Rock and ask that you do not either. If you do insist on climbing, there are many warning signs advising you of the arduous trek as you scale this national icon.
30 kilometres west of Uluru you will find the Olgas – a collection of huge rounded domes that give the National Park its aboriginal name – Kata Tjuta. This is aboriginal for “many heads” and the climbing of these rocks is strictly forbidden. Mt. Olga, the largest rock, rises 546 metres from the surrounding plain and is 200 metres higher than Uluru. There is a main walking track into the Olgas called “The Valley Of the Winds” and it winds through stunning gorges to the Karingana lookout and then onto the Karu lookout on the west side. The Olgas also reflect the blood red colours of the setting sun.
There is a substantial 3 day entrance fee for tourists to visit the Uluru and the Olgas, which is payable at the park entry station. The park is open 30 minutes before sunrise to sunset.
The resort village of Yulara is situated 20 kilometres from Uluru and 53 kilometres from the Olgas. Established in 1984, the complex caters for all tourists – there is an excellent camping ground with all facilities for caravans and campers, several hotels, motels and lodges and a five star luxury hotel aptly called “Sails in the Desert”. There are many restaurants, a supermarket, medical centre, photo shop, gift and souvenir shop, police station, garage, post office and visitor information centre. There are four lookouts that can be accessed from the Yulara village. The Naninga lookout is south of the camping ground and gives you a wonderful view of Uluru with the Olgas in the far distance.
Our trip to the Northern Territory almost complete, we returned to Erldunda and then drove south down the highway to Kulgera, where the Roadhouse has good camping facilities. This little settlement is known as the last pub in the Northern Territory (or first if you are travelling north).
This wonderful state with its many tourist attractions, natural wonders, awesome isolation and picture perfect photo opportunities is a traveller’s utopia that never ceases to amaze and astound you with its beauty. We will certainly return. |
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