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This road joins the Kennedy Highway which signals the start of the cool Tablelands. Our first stop was at the lively town of Mareeba which is known as the tobacco capital of Australia, but it also grows superb coffee beans which flourish in the high altitude. “Coffee Works” in Mareeba conduct guided tours daily and it is very interesting to see how the beans are grown, harvested, roasted, ground and shipped throughout the world. Here many world famous coffee beans and exclusive blends suitable for espresso machines, filters, plungers and percolators are available for tasting and purchase and the choice is unbelievable. “Coffee Works” is set on large immaculate grounds where picnics can be enjoyed with, of course, that wonderful cup of coffee.
Atherton is the Capital of the Tablelands and was founded in the 1880’s by the cedar cutters in their quest for this prized timber. The presence of the Chinese in the late 1800’s has left a legacy of Chinatown and the beautiful Hu Wang Temple which is the only one of its kind outside China and is listed by the National Trust. It was the prospect of gold that brought the Chinese to Atherton and after the precious metal ran out, they stayed to farm the fertile land and left a lifetime of memories. A visit to Chinatown will give you an insight into the oriental life of these industrious people – dioramas, an interpretive museum and a souvenir shop with crystals and feng shui objects portray their hardships and successes in this foreign country. The Hu Wang Temple’s outside simplicity belies the internal intricate carvings and ornate altar which was made in China over a century ago. Tours of the temple can be arranged at the Chinatown office.
The Crystal Caves museum is in Main Street and houses a collection of over 800 crystals and fossils from all over the world. The crystals are displayed as they were discovered and have not been cut or coloured, therefore giving you an opportunity to see how these natural minerals were formed in the earth’s crust. Beautiful Amethysts from Vera Cruz, Pyrite from Spain, Rhodochrosite from Argentina and Apophyllite from India are among the many crystals on display. You are free to wander through the cave to the Magic Temple, the Agate Dome, the Fossil Gallery, and the Grotto Grand and into the Tunnel to view this wonderful collection.
Halloran’s Hill Lookout sits on the site of a dormant volcano and is the highest point in Atherton. From here, you have a panoramic view of the town and the surrounding countryside. An extraordinary upside down tree, children’s playground, local artists artworks and picnic facilities allow you to enjoy the cool breezes and clear air of the Tablelands.
Hastie’s Swamp National Park is home to the Nyleta Wetlands Bird Hide. Here a 2-tier structure gives you excellent views of the many birds that frequent the district. More than 230 species have been catalogued here and extensive photos and diagrams of the birds and their habitats line the walls of the wooden building.
Nearby Lake Tinnaroo has become the freshwater playground for the district. Constructed in 1959 to create a water reservoir for irrigation, Lake Tinnaroo contains enough water to three quarters fill Sydney Harbour. You can view the water cascading over the Spillway from Danbulla Drive and enjoy many picnic spots and free gas BBQ’s on the Lake’s edge. A world record Barramundi (38.75 kilogram) was caught in Lake Tinnaroo and many water activities have become part of the recreational pastime. The small town of Tinnaroo has luxury apartments as well as clean camping grounds and you could also hire a Houseboat to explore the outer reaches of the huge Lake.
Nearby Curtain Fig Tree is over 500 years old. Probably, the most visited tree in the world, this giant of the forest now is a mass of Strangler Fig tendrils which form a living curtain that drop 15 metres to the earth. A boardwalk gives you easy access to view this arboreal masterpiece.
54 kilometres south of Atherton is the beautiful undulating countryside that is famous as the waterfall circuit of the Tablelands. The tiny town of Millaa Millaa nestles among the fertile hills and produces excellent milk and cheeses from its established dairy industry. A statue to the first explorers, Christie Palmerston and his faithful aboriginal friend Pompo, stands in the Town Square and from here you can take the Teresa Creek Road to the nearby waterfalls. The Millaa Milaa Bridal Falls are the most accessible and tumble in a spectacular single drop among dense foliage to the lake below. A series of steps take you down to the valley floor to view this awesome sight. Continue on the Teresa Creek Road to the Zillie and the Elinjaa Falls where the water plunges through the all encompassing rainforest. From Millaa Millaa Township you rejoin the highway and drive west to the Millaa Millaa lookout which affords impressive views of the rolling hills, rich farming land and the nearby highlands.
Travelling south west from Atherton, you come to the old mining town of Herbertson. Discovery of tin deposits in 1880 gave Herbertson a short life and many remnants of that prosperous era – miners’ cottages, hotels, historic stores and restored homes form part of the Heritage Walk throughout the old town. Further east you enter Mt. Hypipamee National Park. A short walking track takes you to the Mt. Hypipamee Crater – an extinct volcano, whose sheer walls plunge 60 metres to an algae covered pool of water. Surrounding dense rainforest create a humid atmosphere which encourages the growth of the permanent green mantle that completely covers the pool.
28 kilometres south is Queensland’s highest town. At 950 metres above sea level, Ravenshoe is also known as the possum capital of Australia as at least a dozen species of this marsupial are known to frequent the area. Nearby the largest wind farm in Queensland generates enough electricity to supply over 3500 homes annually and the futuristic turbines can be seen from many kilometers away. Constructed in 2000, on an extinct volcano, wind generators take advantage of the permanent breezes flowing over the mountain slopes. Each tower is over 45 metres high and with 22 metre blades, these sources of renewable energy have made Ravenshoe famous throughout the continent.
Atherton, with its many tourist attractions, quaint antique shops, modern supermarkets, car repairers, CB radio installers, service and spare parts specialists, is an ideal destination before driving the isolated Savannah Way across to the Gulf of Carpentaria.
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